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“I was so moved and touched by the generosity,” said Ms. Wintour. “When Ralph called to tell me his contribution, I burst into tears. Bringing him in and helping us get started had been such a vote of support. And then there were hundreds of little donations, which broke your heart. There were former Fashion Fund attendees who returned their money from last year and didn't want their names mentioned. They just said, "We're in the same boat." "
Jonathan Cohen, a designer known for his cheerful prints and mindful upcycling, was a finalist for the CFDA / Vogue Fashion Fund in 2018. He applied for both a small business loan ($ 200,000) and the A Common Thread grant. of $ 100,000. .
“The difference on this app was to focus on how we were affected, as well as what we need to keep going,” he wrote in an email.
Mr. Cohen was in San Diego, where he moved to be with his family. This is the first time he has lived at the home since he was 19 (he is now 34) and the first time that he and his business partner, Sarah Leff, have been separated since starting their business in 2011.
"At that time we are paying all the expenses out of pocket," he wrote, adding that normally he would have store payments for spring-summer merchandise but most of that money was now on hold and not shouldn't happen for months (if any). “A common thread would be very useful for covering immediate expenses, as well as for planning the next six to eight months. For the S.B.A. it is very difficult to know when / how much money we will get. "
Mr Kolb said he expected to be able to award money to 10% of the candidates. Those who do not receive funds in the first round, which are reserved for those who need it most, will automatically be included in the next round. He expects most grants to vary between $ 25,000 and $ 75,000. (He estimates that $ 2 million will be disbursed.)
“We are not naive about this,” Ms. Wintour said. “We know we can't help everyone. And maybe some of the people we help will not be successful. But we wanted to show that there is a fashionable support system. That there is a future. "
Source: The New York Times
Now, we don't want to assume too much, but it's probably safe to say that you've been wearing a lot more sweatpants lately - or if not, leggings, maybe. Or maybe you have customized your own face mask. For many of us, these statewide stay-at-home orders have influenced the way we dress, the way we think about clothing.
And it got us thinking about how this historic moment might shape the future of our clothing, so we called Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell to help us think about it. She is a fashion historian and author of "Worn On This Day: The Clothes That Made History". And Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell is with us now.
Welcome. Thank you very much for joining us.
KIMBERLY CHRISMAN-CAMPBELL: Thanks for inviting me, Michel.
MARTIN: So you were recently quoted in the online publication Quartz saying that the biggest changes in fashion don't come from trends. They come from major societal disruptions like wars.
CHRISMAN-CAMPBELL: Yeah. Well, the French Revolution, for example, did away with a lot of the exaggerated fashions associated with the Old Regime - hair powder, hoop petticoats, lace. Everything that was associated with the aristocracy - everything was gone, and it was a political change as well as a change of fashion.
MARTIN: What about World War II? How has this changed the way people dress?
CHRISMAN-CAMPBELL: Well, after the extreme hardships of WWII, when things like food and clothing were rationed and were really hard to come by because so much production was going into the war effort, people went went in the opposite direction. And Dior's new look brought a fad for very long skirts and corsets and very exaggerated fashions that would not have been available or politically correct during the war.
MARTIN: And the current moment? What are the trends that you think could emerge from this moment?
CHRISMAN-CAMPBELL: One of the first things that I kind of predicted would happen was the same thing that happened in World War I, that is, beards go out of fashion. And, in fact, very early in this pandemic, the CDC issued guidelines for things like beards and fingernails, as these can be vectors for the virus, but they can also interfere with your protective gear. For example, it is difficult to wear latex gloves on long nails. It is difficult to put a face mask or respirator on a beard.
MARTIN: So let's talk about the business side for a second. I mean, you have to believe or assume that the industry, the fashion industry, has to feel an economic impact because manufacturing has been shut down in so many places, because so many retail stores are closed. And, of course, you know, tens of millions of people are out of work. So presumably people are not shopping for clothes at the moment. So what do we know - what do we know about how changes in the fashion industry are affecting the types of choices consumers might make?
CHRISMAN-CAMPBELL: Well, it's been fascinating for me to watch how fashion brands and consumers adapt to the widespread restrictions. Maybe athleticism will benefit naturally, as people will continue to wear it after the lockdown, maybe more than they felt comfortable before. It's kind of a double-edged sword, because we buy less because we're not going anywhere.
But retail therapy is a real thing, and a lot of people are shopping online for entertainment or out of necessity, maybe even for the first time, and they will continue to do so. I mean, I first bought groceries online a few weeks ago just because I had to. But this is something that I will probably continue to do. And retailers are adapting to it of course.
MARTIN: Have you seen any fashion examples that meet what we now consider to be hygienic standards?
CHRISMAN-CAMPBELL: Designer masks are definitely becoming a thing, but they already were, in fact. During the fall and winter 2019 parades there were a lot of masks on the runway - both the type of protection and the kind of carnival masks. So things that were already percolating in the high fashion arena are now accelerating.
MARTIN: But before you let go, as a fashion historian, what kinds of things do you think you'll be most interested in reopening the economy, when does that happen?
CHRISMAN-CAMPBELL: Well, I think we're going to see a personal style rebirth. It feels like people can't wait to have a reason to go out again. Rachel Syme, the New Yorker fashion reporter, has started a movement to get people to dress at home every Sunday and post pictures of their outfits just for fun dressing and looking pretty . We can see a real fashion renaissance of people going way beyond just because they've been locked up and that personal expression has been stifled for so long.
MARTIN: It's Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell. She is a fashion historian and author of several books, including "Worn On This Day: The Clothes That Made History". We joined him in Los Angeles.
Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell, thank you very much for talking to us.
CHRISMAN-CAMPBELL: Thanks, Michel. Stay safe.
Source: Npr
The new spring-summer season has arrived in the confined city. The spring of the virus requires a radical segmentation between the inside and the outside. In the house, the look of the poorly groomed hairstyle makes you forget the standardized severity of the salon cut. A new eco-techno-coronary look asserts itself with the firecracker wick, the unshaved beard and the black roots. Sloppy styling is the best proof of confinement, and therefore immunity. And immunity is chic. For the outfit, pajama pants replace jeans. Slippers replace sneakers.
Outside, the bare hand is replaced by the rubber glove, white, yellow or blue. Any plastic object - a 6 liter water bottle, an umbrella, goggles, a page divider - carries with it the potential to become a wetsuit. The garbage bag is the new ready-to-wear, both in hospitals and in nursing homes and refugee camps. Latex is a must. Epidemiologists warn that plastic is one of the surfaces the virus adheres to the best. But plastic protects against fear because it does not prevent contagion.
Outside the domestic space, the mask becomes the social condom of the masses. The textile sector, the most dependent on supplies from China, sees its production almost blocked. China is not only the epicenter of the virus, it is also the workshop where half of the world's clothes are sewn. Inditex, a leading international textile group, is collapsing on the stock markets. Who needs a new shirt while in lockdown? The big fashion brands, Yves Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, LVMH… recycle their workshops to produce masks, medical gowns and protective suits. Despite everything, China remains the world's leading producer ... of masks now.
The faces of the world disappear under the mask, medical or contraband, homemade or bought from Amazon, luxury or cheap, certified or uncertain, whatever contaminates more than it protects. Fashion accessory par excellence in 2020, the mask had already appeared in the fashion week parades in London, Milan and Paris in early 2019, before the virus crisis was declared in Europe: Chanel, Kenzo, Marine Serre, Pitta Mask, Xander Zhou sign their exclusive models. Hygiene goes hand in hand with style. In digital, the selfie reigns, in analog, there are only "maskies". The feminists of the 60s burned bras and the transfeminists of the 2020s make two masks in each bra. Nowadays, would anyone claim that hiding the face with a full hijab is an anti-Republican sign?
The new smells of the season are the neutral and transparent fragrance of hydroalcoholic gel, the reassuring freshness of detergent and the deep, spicy fragrance of bleach. The new trend is the total Chernobyl-medical look. Where any social relationship is contagious, barrier fashion rules. When the economy permits, and political negligence does not prevent it, bodies are covered with a hygienic epidermis made of impenetrable cellulose. White is the dominant color in the spring-summer collection, with hints of yellow, blue and orange. The full, unisex suit is heralded as the new urban summer raincoat. Covered with a protective film, the human of the Covid-19 era looks like a bat hiding under its plastic wings. Is the sanitary suit a totem by which the potential contaminant attempts to coax the virus by adopting the attributes of the contaminating animal?
The sleeves and legs are worn wide, the silhouette is curved and continuous, from the hood to the feet, the skin becomes invisible. The difference between pants, shirt, jacket, skirt and shoe disappears. The codes which make it possible to recognize the human body in society become inoperative. The human is disfigured. Toxic Age Chameleons, invisible but present, the Faceless Human and the virus look alike.
The mask, the combination and the generalization of barrier gestures are the destruction of the social relationship as we have known it until now in the sensitive field. Touch becomes impossible, smile invisible, hip movement is imperceptible.
The skin becomes an internal and private organ. The body is defamiliarized, desingularized, deseroticized. The hygienic coveralls are much more and much less than just a dress. It is an external and protective technoskin under which the body loses its unique shape. It is the open status of the body, the porosity of the skin, its ability to relate to the outside, that is denied. It is the body as a living organism that is denied. The openings of the body, those that are visible, such as the mouth or nose, but also those that are microscopic and that are in the epidermis, are covered and sealed. The combination brings the differentiated social body back to the larval state, taking it out of the human universe and bringing it into either entomology or robotics. Hospital caregivers removing their overalls in a hygienic room are human butterflies emerging from silk cocoons.
Source: Liberation.
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Pour sa campagne printemps 2020, Guess a choisi Jennifer Lopez comme égérie. Actrice, chanteuse, danseuse, entrepreneure et icône de mode, elle est la vedette de la campagne à travers le monde.
Dirigée par Paul Marciano, le directeur de la création de Guess, la campagne a été tournée à Santa Monica en Californie. La photographe Tatiana Gerusova est à l’origine de la série d'images qui met en avant un lifestyle hollywoodien classique.
« Je suis ravie d'accueillir Jennifer pour une deuxième campagne avec Guess et Marciano. Jennifer continue à repousser les limites dans les industries de la musique, de la mode et du cinéma et représente tout ce qu'une Guess Girl est - confiante, sensuelle et aventureuse. Cette campagne met en lumière la beauté naturelle de Jennifer et démontre exactement pourquoi elle est célébrée comme une véritable icône », détaille dans un communiqué Paul Marciano.
Vous manquez d'inspiration pour votre coiffure de fêtes ? Pas de panique, on vous a sélectionné 25 mises en beauté de stars qui vont vous faire craquer !
Les fêtes de fin d'année approchant à grand pas, il est temps de savoir ce que vous allez porter mais aussi comment vous allez vous coiffer !
Entre le chignon, les tresses et les boucles, difficile de faire un choix parmi toutes ces possibilités de coiffures. La solution ? S'inspirer des stars !
Que vous décidiez de réaliser la mise en beauté vous-même ou que vous fassiez appel à un coiffeur, avoir une photo sous la main peut toujours vous aider à réaliser la coupe qui vous ferra briller toute la soirée.
Et si vous souhaitez avoir un coup de pouce vous faire votre choix, sachez que les coiffures réalisées avec des accessoires font parties des top tendances de l'année. À vous de jouer !
Le wet look de Blake Lively
Pour vos soirées de réveillon, optez pour l'une des coiffures très en vogue en ce moment : le wet look. Pour le réaliser ? Déposez une dose de gel sur votre crinière plaquée vers l'arrière.
La tresse sur le côté d'Emily Ratajkowski
Pour les fêtes, optez pour une tresse sur le côté. À réaliser serrée ou de façon bohème comme Emily Ratajkowski.
La demi queue-de-cheval de Chiara Ferragni
La blogueuse mondialement connue a opté pour une demi queue-de-cheval. Pour la réaliser, il suffit de séparer sa crinière en deux et d'attacher la partie supérieur. Hop le tour est joué.
Le serre-tête de Kaia Gerber
Le serre-tête est l'accessoire parfait pour les fêtes ! À choisir en taille maxi pour une touche d'originalité.
Les barettes d'Irina Shayk
Pour apporter une touche d'originalité à vos cheveux longs, optez pour les barrettes à plaquer de chaque côté de la tête. Canon.
Le side hair d'Emma Stone
Comme Emma Stone, misez sur le side hair (c'est-à-dire les cheveux placés d'un côté) à porter sur une crinière ondulée voir bouclée pour un volume XXL.
Les cheveux bouclés de Beyoncé
Si vous voulez être sophistiquée sans vous prendre la tête pour les fêtes, bouclez votre crinière à l'aide d'un fer ou d'un lisseur. Effet garanti !
Les cheveux longs ondulés de Gigi Hadid
Pour sublimer votre longue crinière, faites comme Gigi Hadid ondulez seulement vos longueurs.
La queue-de-cheval haute de Kim Kardashian
S'il y a bien une coiffure sur laquelle il faut craquer durant les fêtes, c'est celle qui fait des ravages depuis quelques mois : la queue-de-cheval haute perchée.
Le maxi chignon de Jennifer Lopez
Qui dit jour de fête, dit coiffure de circonstance ! Craquez donc pour un maxi chignon à réaliser avec des extensions capillaires pour un maxi volume.
Source: Ohmymag.
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